Sometimes when you are really ready for a holiday you perhaps subconsciously place your hopes on wanting it to be good. I think I did that prior to my recent holiday to Malta, as it turns out it wasn't a bad holiday (though not amazing either), it was a welcome respite from the cold weather, time to think and reflect and time to have a bit of fun.
Arriving at Luton airport and checking in I was worried about the weather, the clouds were heavy and full of snow and as my dad had recently had a holiday at Christmas cancelled due to the bad weather I was on tenterhooks. We queued for the check in and just happened to be behind a female Maltese volleyball team, each and everyone stunning looking, my spirits began to rise. So we boarded the plane and the heavens cascaded with snow, not good. Seat belts on we nervously waited, time dropped off the clock slowly, a lorry with some kind of jet wash hurriedly caressed the aircraft with icey cold water washing any traces of offending snow away, suddenly we were away, thrusting engines hurtling us down the runway - my heart leapt and in my mind the ride of the valkyries music thundered forth in elation.
About three hours later the lights of Malta appeared on the horizon, I squinted out of the window as the plane dropped and saw a pretty church lit up in the late evening, orange street lights surrounded it, a harbour, boats and moving traffic - touchdown.
It didn't seem overly warm as we disembarked but then again it wasn't cold either. We were through the airport in a flash and our transfer driver was waiting. Onto a mini bus and a roller coaster ride later (yep the Maltese drive like maniacs) and we were at the hotel. On booking in we were told a floor of the hotel had been flooded and we were being transferred to a 'sister hotel'. Another mad dash in a mini bus, some protestations at the new hotel reception and we were upgraded to fully inclusive, result. It was late, I explored a little and felt more than a little despondant that we didn't seem to be near anything really, and so travel tired and left wondering I went to bed.
The next day the sun was astride the sky in no time, breakfast inside me it was time to ask questions and explore. it turned out my reconnaissance the previous evening had yielded little because basically I'd been up the wrong streets. My spirits rose as I got my bearings and began to discover things and then we left for the capital Valletta.
The capital is comprised of many adjoining areas, Vallatta being on the main promontory that is flanked by various harbours and inlets. It's a very pretty place, lots of old buildings and interesting fortifications and architecture. It didn't take long to discover the bar where the late great actor Oliver Reed had died whilst filming the movie 'Gladiator'. it was a busy little back street pub with English charm and character adorned with lots of movie posters of the actor in past roles. A few pints later and I began to relax and think 'I'm here, I'm on hoilday - at long bloody last!'
So, Malta, what did I think to it? Well it's a bit of a mixed bag really. I liked the place but it has a generic Mediterranean feel about it when you're away from the touristy bits. Some places like Mdina and Mosta have real charm, history and depth, though that said many other places have a very unfinished or 'derelict' (as one Brit in the hotel said) feel about them. Some of the pavements are particularly bad and there seems to be a good few half built apartments and other buildings.
It's not a big island, so exploring is fairly easy, though the old yellow and orange buses are real bone shakers with no suspension. Some buses have been passed down from father to son and are decades old, the jewel of the family. Sadly the bus drivers themselves aren't the most friendly characters, no doubt they've seen tens of thousands of tourists and have been asked the same questions time over. The roads in Malta aren't great to be fair and there seems to be lots of one way systems. The Maltese love their cars, most families I am told have 2-3 cars, most young Maltese men like to pose around in them booming music forth, the older men do the same but play 80's music! I have to be honest and say I didn't feel the Maltese were the best drivers in the world, they are generically continental in their style with a manic speed demon edge. They seem to drive with abandon and rarely indicate leaving the whole thing a guessing game. It seemed to be every time you crossed a road there was a car bearing down upon you.
The Maltese as a people are a mixed bunch, not overly friendly but not aloof either. Much like any country there is good and bad but in fairness the Maltese I'd say aren't a bad lot. They speak good English, are polite and helpful when approached (apart from the bus drivers!). I noticed how observant they are about current affairs, especially goings on abroad, the UK in particular. My feeling was now and again the Maltese get fed up with tourists flooding their small island but they also acknowledge we're a good source of revenue. I guess like in other places the rule of one price for tourists and another price for locals applies. One thing I did pick up on was the Maltese concern with immigrants, mostly from Africa but according to the barman in my hotel there are a lot of Bulgarians and other east Europeans coming to the island now. There was a Bulgarian maid in the hotel that was very charming but there were a lot of African males walking the street on some occasions. I was told most Africans make for Italy but get stopped and sent back to Malta where the Maltese have to deal with them. There are a lot of camps of immigrants to the south of the Malta I'm told. I never felt nervous walking the streets at night though, the Africans seem to be in search of a better life and not criminals.
Maltese women are absolutely exquisite creatures, beauty personified and probably up their as some of the most gorgeous creatures I've seen on my travels. Maltese women have a certain class of their own. They wear great outfits, carry themselves with grace and pride. Dusky skin, long locks of dark hair, curves to die for, they are a mix of European, Italian and slightly Arabic looking at times, that said some looked very English too, with a resplendent aura.
It wouldn't be fair to draw too many conclusions about the Maltese as I was only there a week, for the most they seemed nice people, however I would have liked to immerse myself in their culture and language more. Some things are evident about the Maltese, they have a strong sense of family, they are fervently religious, patriotic, observant and perhaps a bit materialistic as they do like their fine clothes and cars.
It's no secret that I love my history and for this reason I was looking forward to Malta. Most of the big players in history have occupied the little island and made their mark. The Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs and various European powers have all contributed in some way or another to leave Malta how it is today. I sampled a few places of historical interest, Wignacourt tower, Fort St Elmo, Valletta, Mosta, Mdina to name some. The actual places, what you pay to get in them and what is on offer varies greatly though. The Knights Hospitalars museum/show in Mdina cost 5 euros, was said to be award winning but just turned out to be a tour with crackling headsets viewing waxworks dolls (though some were very lifelike and spooky). The re-enactment of troops training at fort St Elmo in Valletta was good, but we only stumbled on the show just before it began so missed the tour of the fort but the actual place was across a weed strewn concrete plateau that really wasn't signposted well, a case of follwing the crowd.
I got the feeling some historical places of interest just seemed to be there for the cash in value and are lacking in some areas, though to be fair I never really felt ripped off, just left feeling a little disappointed in some instances. The best thing is to read up and pick and choose, or just talk to other tourists or locals to get feedback.
Personally for me Malta was a welcome break, the weather reached 75 degrees at times and it was great to stroll around in a t-shirt feeling warm and content but not over baked. There's some lovely little bars there, some lovely views and I especially liked the area of Sliema just north of Valletta. Sliema has a very cosmopolitan feel about it, great shops, restaurants and cafes and the whole area feels quite modern, great for when you want to escape the historical touristy stuff (and with good pavements!). St Julians is also a nice little bay/area as is St Pauls which in contrast is very quiet. Bugibba, the area where I stayed is ok, a typical holiday place festooned with English style bars, clubs and more than its fair share of tacky shops. It's a clean place, plenty of places to eat and drink and is quite small and easy to traverse with good bus links, facilities and a really good cinema.
Would I return to Malta? The answer is probably yes but I'd probably go to Sliema for a long weekend with friends. It's not that cheap a place really, the locals aren't happy with the Euro still either. Malta is worth a visit (for the beautiful women alone!) but generally only attracts the retired sort for any duration, mainly because the weather is favourable and English is spoken everywhere. I would recommend Malta for a short break to anyone, especially younger people wanting a vibrant capital to explore. It wouldn't be a bad family holiday either and the oldies (mainly) love it there.
So that's Malta, and here is some photos for you to enjoy!
Mosta Dome
Wignacourt Tower
A vintage Perkins Bus
Re-enactment at Fort St Elmo, Valletta
Fort St Elmo battlements
Valletta
Mdina (the silent city)
Sliema coastline
Valletta main street
Valletta street & architecture
A street in Mdina
St Julians
Carnival parade in Valletta
St Julians
Valletta view from the Sliema ferry
View from just outside Fort St Elmo
Yours truly, ponytail flapping madly in the breeze!
