Winter

Winter has arrived. My bones ache and creak more than usual, I'm no fan of the cold either. Occasionally though we still get sunny days and although the greenery has abandoned us largely for now winter still has its own beauty. Here's a photo I took last week at a park a few miles away from where I live.

Road Trip 2013, Day One - Glastonbury.

It was the morning of the 18th of July and there I stood blinking in the 7am sunlight like some waking bird with my small suitcase. I'd deliberated with using a large rucksack but opted for small luggage as it keeps clothes neater and you don't have to empty the whole thing if you need something at the bottom. I was about to embark on a road trip for a few days with my friend Helen. Much of it was largely planned, as in hotel stops but the rest was left pretty open. The first leg of the journey was soon under way, the weather was perfect as we chatted merrily along driving the 200+ miles to our first stop of Glastonbury. The journey was uneventful apart from Helen stopping at some Travelodge that did breakfasts for a break. Service took ages, she complained (and rightly so) and voila, a free breakfast! The first place we were booked in at was the Covenstead bed & breakfast which we found without any problems, it's ideally situated almost in the town centre of Glastonbury. This was Helens choice as she has an interest in witchcraft and pagan related subjects. I must admit I was somewhat sceptical about it, not that I am against things like witchcraft or the occult, I'm just a pragmatic atheist/humanist so I honestly didn't see this place ringing my bells, however, I was to be pleasantly surprised.

We were greeted warmly by the owner of the Covenstead called 'Adele' who had long lustrous sable hair and a cheeky Yorkshire accent. It didn't take long to realise she was versed in the Yorkshire art of brevity accompanied by a ready wit. After a couple of formalities we were shown to our room, the 'hand-fasting suite' and left to unpack and refresh. I must add at this point that Helen and myself weren't in this room for romantic reasons, just the fact that Adele was booked up and we had a choice of two rooms, the hand-fasting room was the larger and cooler of the two on offer. The interior of the Covenstead really is amazing, from witchcraft related items, symbols, wall fresco like paintings to flora and fauna. Here's a few photos.

I really liked the Covenstead, sure it isn't your regular bed & breakfast, in fact many people may presume its aimed purely at a niche market but that really isn't the case. Whilst it may not be conventional you could say with a grin and slightly corrupted wording its 'Coven-tional'! If you expecting large tv's or lounges with reclining armchairs then it isn't the place for you but if you want something different with a great host and are open minded then the Covenstead is great value and perfectly located, and the breakfast is large and very tasty with plenty of choice. After freshening up we headed out to explore but didn't get very far. The problem being is that Glastonbury, though fairly small has a myriad of shops ranging from clothing, books, cd's to religious and pagan related paraphernalia. Helen was immediately bewitched by all of this so I braced myself for a hot afternoon of browsing shops. Prices seemed to range greatly but a persistent bargain hunter would be rewarded. We found a shop called the Psychic Piglet which sold gifts as well as having a music section in the back which even though was quite small had a great range of diverse cd's which I spent a good while perusing, sadly at £15 a cd I thought it was very over priced. Later, Helen found a health food supermarket (previously a Woolworths) and was in raptures about it, my feet were aching by this point but I did indulge in buying some specialist tea though I did ask myself why was I buying food whilst on holiday!?

Heading back to the Covenstead after a marathon of gift shops we showered, rested and then prepared to ascend Glastonbury Tor as evening was now encroaching and Adele had said it was best visited at this time adding "All the interesting people were up there in the evening". As I suffer with arthritis I wasn't exactly looking forward to the climb but on the advice of Adele we took rear approach with steps, yes it was steeper but was less long and arduous. Parking nearby we walked over a field and began to scale the Tor. Personally I was amazed that I wasn't reaching for my inhaler as I suffer with bouts of asthma at times but I really didn't feel the need to use it once. The climb was quite steep and a little uneven in parts but with a few rests we managed it in relatively little time, as I reached the top I thought to myself am I really in the mythical realm of King Arthur and Avalon? I caught my breath and looked around and for a few moments was bereft of words as I gazed in wonder at the surrounding beautiful landscape.

Initially there were few people at the Tor but as the sun began to slowly drift down in the west more arrived. Some danced, others stood in deep thought, some reclined on the slopes and a group of three guys played some simple tunes. As I settled nearby to listen it turned out one of the guys clutching a guitar had walked from London, his road trip it seemed was still under way but the Tor was a stop off he just had to make. The guitar guy conversed with two others, one clutching some kind of flute and the other a mouth organ and they made music. I rested against St Michael's Tower and soaked up the atmosphere. Later when the sun was almost dipping below the horizon and Helen was taking lots of photos I chatted to an American woman and an elderly guy from the north east of England, everybody seemed friendly and there was an air of peace. Out of nowhere a para-glider turned up and I looked skywards envying the view he had. As I lay on the slope of the Tor and watched the sun slowly sink from view I felt in awe of this beautiful place, I closed my eyes and imagined the time of Arthurian legend, it will certainly be a moment I will always reminisce fondly about.

With little prevailing light left we decided to descend. Halfway down I jolted my ankle, probably down to the fact I was wearing brothel creeper shoes and they are flat and sometimes flip over on uneven surfaces, though I didn't feel in much pain initially it was a sprain that would cause me some grief for the rest of the trip. Arriving back at the Covenstead we parked and headed off in search of food and drink, as it was late there wasn't too much on offer and I certainly didn't want to sit down for a heavy restaurant meal so late on but Helen was hungry. We stumbled upon the 'Becke's Inn' on the High Street which was very much a local's pub. The landlady (and cook) was happy to rustle up ham, egg and chips for Helen. She was a very jolly character with a lilting west country accent and served Helen with a very generous plate of food, I've not seen ham that thick for a very long time. Revived with food, and in my case beer, we headed to a pub Adele had recommended called The King Arthur on Benedict Street. I found it to be a really good pub and the locals were friendly, A Staffordshire bull terrier belonging to one of them curled up next to us as I drank a pint of Butcombe ale which is popular in that area. Tired but very happy with the day we headed back to the Covenstead and even though it was a really hot night as soon as I clambered upon the bed I closed my eyes without even getting in it and was soon soundly asleep.

Road Trip 2013 will be continued soon!

Iconic Kraftwerk

I'm not exactly sure how long I've loved the German band Kraftwerk. Having had a long search of my memory I suspect it was back around when I was 15, so around 1983 or possibly a bit later. Sitting in a small box room playing on my Sinclair ZX Spectrum I'd listen to music cassettes when games had loaded in. Though I was influenced by lots of different sorts of music electronic and synthesiser music were rapidly becoming favourites. On leaving school and getting a relatively low paid job I persuaded my mother to sign a credit agreement so I could get into debt buying a keyboard. I think it cost around £125 and in truth wasn't that good or professional added to the fact I was poor at playing it. In time the keyboard got sold but my love of electronic remained, it was the 1980s after all and such music was flourishing.

So to the present day. Kraftwerk are still touring and remain enigmatic and iconic in the music world. Only last week they played a series of concerts in the Tate Modern in London in which they played entire albums over several nights. I was caught napping regarding the announcement and was too late to get a ticket, so unfortunately I've missed them ... again. I still have some of their stuff on vinyl including a 12" luminescent version of 'Neon Lights' and many cd's.

Added to my woes there have been some amazing reviews, two of which are  here and here. One day I may get to see them though it would have been fantastic to have seen them in their formative years with the original line up. Here's a video of one of my favourite tracks called 'Numbers' though live with the extra bass sounds even more awesome, I have it on a cd somewhere, sadly YouTube losses some of the sound (but is still good).

In Search Of Gandalf

London, it's a strange old place. I've been going to there for quite a while now. Almost lived and worked there once, and truth be said I would have liked to have done so, for a while at least, not so sure nowadays. These days London still fascinates me yet alienates me too, it's a city of stark contrasts some of which draw me back and some that make me loathe it.

So anyway, London once again. This planned trip had been pulling me through the mundane days of the Christmas period. Friday the 11th soon came around and I was speeding towards the capital with fellow local online gamer and casual friend James to meet other online gamers from Lord of the Rings Online or Lotro for short. In truth it was only ever going to be a fleeting visit to meet, socialise and fit whatever we could in, so very ad hoc really. That said a loose plan of sorts was in place. 

As the patchwork of fields blinked passed I chatted to James in what seemed an almost empty carriage, an alternative ghost train being that is it was bereft of the usual hubbub of voices. Within no time the train was groaning to a halt at Kings Cross and after topping our oyster cards up we headed down to the underground and towards Oxford Street. The purpose of this was twofold, firstly I wanted to check out a pair of shoes from nearby Berwick Street in Soho and secondly were going to meet the third of our merry band of geeks called Alan who had travelled in from Cardiff. We soon chanced upon the shoe shop called 'Underground' though James spotted it before I did but my field of vision has never been wide. Whilst I tried a few pairs of 50s retro style shoes on James waited outside and was approached by a woman asking if he wanted 'ladies?', no shocks really as we were at the bottom end of Soho which is known for its seedier elements. Shoes bagged and I was a very happy hobbit, Alan had texted to say he'd arrived and as we were central we decided to hole up in a pub called The Blue Posts and await him. Two pints for very unremarkable beer wasn't cheap, £9 something as I recall but this is the heart of London so I expected nothing less, though was still quite taken aback. Alan soon arrived, greetings made and another pint and we decided to head over Shaftesbury Avenue and into China town for a cheap buffet meal before heading to the hotel. Passable buffet over we hit the underground and arrived at Southwark station which seemed quite new in appearance.

I've stayed in a fair few Travelodges in London but have to say this was the best so far. It was located down a quieter side street literally 3 mins walk from the underground, had a couple of pubs nearby though we only sampled one called 'The Ring' (very apt for Lord of the Rings fans). nestled underneath the Travelodge were a 24/7 convenience store and a very nice but reasonably priced cafe, so facility wise everything was good. The room itself was standard cheap hotel fare, clean and with a spacious walk in shower. 

That evening after a rest and freshening up we headed up to Camden Town. This was my idea but nobody had any other ideas and my logic being that Camden is a relatively small area with a good selection of pubs more suited to our age and not too expensive. In good spirits we moved from pub to pub starting at the Elephants Head before moving to the Hawley Arms and heading further down the High Street to a pub I thought was there but has either closed or been refurbed. Looking at old Google Street maps it's there as the Monarch which I visited with my friend Jane once. James quipped we were running out of Camden but seeing as he had no ideas himself we trekked back down the High street and decided to try a bar that looked ok from the outside and had comfy chairs. We were promptly stopped by a doorman who was asking a couple for identification and who seemed well into their twenties. I flatly refused to give my ID as I'm 40 something and a quick rack of my memory made me realise this was the first time I'd been asked my age since I was around 17, that being back in the mid 1980's. We strolled back down the street and my new shoes were beginning to chafe somewhat but a girl in her twenties shouted I was cute and also a 'teddy boy' (1950s rocker type) which made me smile, though I'm only the shoes were from that time period fashion wise. Next pub up was the Oxford Arms and we managed to get a table so stopped for a couple there, I had a hip flask in my pocket filled with Jack Daniels (for medicinal purposes!) so had a bit of a secret top up. Next we headed down Inverness Street to the Good Mixer, a perennial favourite of mine and a great lively pub. Alan was a gent and asked how my feet were holding. The Good Mixer was crowded to say the least and Alan remarked the name was very fitting as it was a very mixed crowd of people to say the least. James who usually drinks quite fast and then turns into a zombie seemed to be ok too, so all was well. We ended the night in Bucks Head where some guy was trying to wash his hair and then dry it under a dryer in a very cramped washroom. Then we got the tube back. At Southwark we noticed the station barriers were out of order so we couldn't check out using the oyster cards, so we got charged the maximum amount for the journey next day, not good. Arriving back near the hotel no local pubs were open which I found a bit of a shock being the capital and all that. So procuring a snack from the 24/7 shop it was time for some tv and then sleep, a good night had by all.

I was up early the next day and peering out of the window I noticed we had a good view of the new Shard building that seemed to reach skywards almost puncturing the grey clouds. I ached from the previous day, my joints reminded me London always takes it out of me. After a very good breakfast we headed into central London on foot to meet yet more geeks, one who was over from America called Jenna and her English friend Mark. The walk by the Thames cleared the previous nights cobwebs away and after a coffee in a very busy Starbucks we headed to Covent Garden station to meet the other two. Jenna came running out and greeted us all with warm hugs and we headed into Covent Garden for a stroll and chat. We browsed a few shops including Games Workshop and there was a good acoustic style band playing in one of the sunken sections of the market. Stomachs rumbling we weaved through some streets and ended up at a very old style pub called The Round Table where Jenna treated us all to some food, though three platters of mixed nibbles were barely enough to feed us all but would at least keep us going for a while. Part of our 'loose' plan was head over to the Limehouse area of east London to a pub called The Grapes which legendary actor Ian McKellen and Gandalf from the Lord of the Rings himself was part owner in (more here). We decided to head over there after the food and at this point James went into hyper mode conversation wise and wouldn't cease. Suddenly he was an authority in everything and even when the conversation briefly became contentious (it was about royalty) he wouldn't do the diplomatic thing and shut up. My thought being these were new people we were meeting and obviously had different views so I didn't really want to upset anyone or sabre rattle this early on. Eventually he stopped talking and we consulted tube maps for the journey eastwards. Some of the journey was on the DLR (Docklands Light Rail) and after a crowded tube journey in which Jenna saved me from hurtling down the train into other people by holding my hand tightly. It was a touching and thoughtful gesture as not being the tallest of people tube travel can be daunting when crowded.

At Limehouse Alan got a street map up on his phone and we soon found The Grapes down by the Thames. Walking towards it Jenna's friend Mark said he didn't know what to make of the area. He pointed out London is a collection of small towns joined together which ironically I'm sure my friend Pat also from London once said. Mark added that this area didn't seem to have an identity though some of this might be attributed to the gloomy weather. Personally it struck me as being a very affluent area with gated residential apartments, some with reception areas, that said I'm no expert on other areas of London that much really so I'm sure Mark has a relevant point. The whole area was quite nice and had canals and locks and a quite suburban feel. Characterless? well maybe a little but quite nice also.

The Grapes was a lovely little pub. A narrow dimly lit wooden affair with friendly bar staff but sadly no wizards in the form of Ian McKellen but then I knew the chances of seeing him were slim anyway. We settled in, drinks flowed nicely, James's capacity for talking hadn't ceased but we inter weaved with each other conversation wise as a group. A few hours dropped off the clock and it was a lovely place to pass the waning hours of an afternoon in getting to know new people. Jenna and Mark were lovely genuine people and I'm really pleased I met them, putting names to faces is always good. As afternoon slipped into evening we headed back into the Embankment area of London and after some indecision of what to do pub wise we ended up in a pub called The Sherlock Holmes which proved to be a good choice as it was fairly reasonably priced and the food was very good. The evening soon passed away, James continued to talk a lot but was slowing down a little and we said our goodbyes at the Embankment tube station after what was (ear bending aside) was a really good day.

On getting back to Southwark we had a final drink in The Ring pub near the hotel, said our goodbyes as we were heading back early the next day and then it was off to bed, I was tired after such an active day.

So Sunday came, up early and in no time back at Kings Cross and homeward bound. Alas the train broke down at Finsbury Park just outside of London and limped back to Kings Cross. James wasn't best pleased and berated public transport but I knew our tickets would be valid on another train back so didn't worry at all. They couldn't repair the train so after 30 minutes or so we were directed onto another. James stomped off and that was the last I saw of him. The platform was crowded and I had no idea which carriage he'd boarded, though I boarded pretty much the same one as indicated on my ticket. Soon London was behind me and I was disembarking back home walking up the quiet leafy road towards home.

All in all it was a welcome break that passed far too quickly, Jenna, Alan and Mark where lovely people and I'm really glad I met them. Next year perhaps? I'll even bring a ball gag for James!

The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey Review

So there I sat, a happy little hobbit waiting for a film I'd always wanted to see, The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey though the reality is this isn't an unexpected review!

*Warning the following review has minor rants and contains spoilers*

The film starts well with Ian Holm reprising his role as the original Bilbo Baggins alongside Elijah Wood playing Frodo in what is a nice little prologue piece linking the movie to the past Lord of the Rings trilogy via Bilbo's memoirs.

Then more back story follows regarding the Dwarven kingdoms of Erebor before Gandalf presents himself at Bag End and invites the new Bilbo (Martin Freeman) 'On an adventure'. So far, so good and it gets better when the dwarves 'come-a-knockin' at the shy hobbit's round door. The atmosphere is infectious, the dwarves are brimming with character and a couple of songs add to the proceedings and light heartedness. Peter Jackson's script writers have also injected some humour in there which works well and has the audience laughing along.

Bone of contention #1

I'm surprised that despite his eye for detail Jackson fails to explain how Gandalf and Thorin have actually met, to omit something like that didn't sit well with me. They both actually meet at the Prancing Pony in Bree before the main story begins and travel together to the Shire, both discovering mutual goals. It would have been so easy for Jackson to have inserted a brief scene of them meeting in Bree to explain things but no, you're left to work that one out for yourself.

Proceedings move swiftly on to the dwarven mission and off we trot seemingly with little deliberation for Bilbo except for a few moments of silence when he gazes around his empty hobbit hole but this is only a small gripe on my part.

Bilbo soon sets off and we are out of the Shire, which leaves me wondering why Jackson rebuilt the entire Hobbiton village again, because we see little of it, if at all, unless we see more in a future film.

So, onto the road we go, some more back story on Thorin from the excellent Ken Stott who plays the aged dwarven veteran 'Balin'. We were promised more of Middle Earth and I felt Jackson could have done a CGI Bree in the distance for a fleeting scene before the party enter the Lonelands. Suddenly its into the Trollshaws and the Trolls. 

Bone of contention #2

Balin mentions more of the back story of Thorin and the battle of Azanulbizar in which Thorin was wounded after fighting Azog (allegedly) but gains his name from using an oak branch as a shield. The film distorts this beyond belief. Page 1410, Appendix A, states that Thorin was wounded in the battle along with Thrain and there's a footnote to Thorin getting his name from the oaken branch but that's as far as it goes for Thorin in the battle, he's only a young dwarf then after all. Azog the orc is actually slain in this battle by a young Dain Ironfoot after Azog slays Nain his father. Dain despite his young years slays Azog and beheads him, he's shaken by it all but goes onto greater things, but the battle is won even though the dwarven loses are grievous (Return of the King, page 1411 appendix A). Despite all this in the movie Azog is alive and well and hungry for more despite having had his head hewn off and thrust on a stake in the book. So the stage is now set in the movie for Azog to be Thorins nemesis and for a purist like me its unforgivable. It will be interesting to see how they portray Billy Connelly who plays Dain in a later film but any credit of him killing Azog has been stolen from him by the meddling Jackson.

Moving on, we meet the wizard Radagast the Brown who is played very adeptly by Sylvester McCoy and isn't as irritating as earlier reports suggested, however...

Bone of contention #3

How does Radagast move so quickly from Rhosgobel in Mirkwood over the Misty Mountains and bump into the company? Its a good old trek and bumping into the company by chance? I think not, there's fate and good luck but come on! I'm not against Radagast's appearance in the film but in the books he barely gets a line or two and the movie embellishes his role above and beyond its need.

So the trolls dealt with we have Azog in hot pursuit and suddenly the terrain changes from woodland to barren hills in the blink of an eye, the company descend into the safety of Rivendell and we get more story distortions on the council of the wise meeting etc, though it seems to work ok.

Thorin isn't a happy dwarf and heads off as he's working against the clock mission wise. So off the party head again and set about traversing the Misty Mountains. Not a wise move but the interlude where the giants enter is vastly over emphasised and adds nothing to the movie, its not a bone of contention I just didn't see the point in mountains moving and theatrics. The party take shelter, Bilbo isn't happy and then the goblins capture all but Bilbo.

Andy Serkis returns as Gollum, steals the show again and the riddle scene is faithfully recreated. The we get Gandalf returning to rescue the dwarves and like the mountain scene an overstated scene of escape in which rickety wooden platforms and rope bridges look more like a Keystone cops caper than able dwarves escaping, it doesn't feel right at all, though Barry Humpries works well as the Goblin king and there's some chuckles in there.

Bilbo having unwittingly discovered the one ring realises that it makes him invisible and makes his escape from the now maniacal Gollum and rejoins the dwarves. Though...

Bone of contention #4

Bilbo having gave Gollum the slip actually escapes from goblins and rejoins the dwarves, The Hobbit, Riddles in the Dark pages 85-86 but this is a minor moan really.

So on escaping Azog once again gives pursuit to our unlucky band having had a seemingly easier journey thus far. The dwarves get trapped up trees just like in the book but...

Bone of contention #5

Azog and Thorin bump heads and get it on and Bilbo joins in the battle with the rest of the dwarves before they are all rescued by the eagles. They do get rescued by the eagles in the book but the skirmish never actually occurs and of course Azog shouldn't even be there!

So, that really concludes the film and I guess if you're reading this that I didn't really enjoy it. On the contrary I did but I can't abide Jacksons meddling when it isn't necessary at all, the book provides plenty of material and so do later appendices and references. On a more positive note, when the closing credits came down my friend Dominic turned to me and said 'It feels like we've never been away'. He was right, it didn't, the one good thing despite new technological innovations is Middle Earth still feels familiar and that's a boon for the viewer and casual Tolkien fan. New Zealand does capture the feel of Middle Earth well but I can't help musing what if some bits had actually been filmed here in England, it would have been nice. 

Despite the bending of the original story the film works well enough, the actors hold the film up well, Ian McKellen being especially excellent as a returning Gandalf. Freeman is a revelation as Bilbo and fits the role fantastically and the actors playing the dwarves are all very commendable too, though some get more lines than others, of course this may change. I really liked Ken Stott playing the elder Dwarf Balin. The film is a little protracted but I never really felt bored as the pace moves along fairly well with the odd pause, Rivendell being the main one.

In all honesty it felt good to be back in Middle Earth, I suspect greater things will come (well I hope so) in later films and the characters will grow even more. The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey isn't an epic but its not shabby either, Peter Jackson has taken many liberties with it and some of it works and for purists like me some is just downright wrong. I can't judge a whole trilogy on one film but it isn't a bad start all said and done but its nothing earth shattering either.

I can't help wondering what another director would do with it all but I guess that will never happen in my time. If I had to rate it out of 10, then I'd give it a solid 7 but I can't help feeling a little disenchanted by Jacksons meddling. I'll go see it again in 48 frames per second I suspect. The soundtrack is also noteworthy and like the LoTR's trilogy compliments things well.

So, to end with, not a bad movie experience by any means, I'd recommend it and I'd see it again but I think it'll be better to judge it as a trilogy than a one off film at the end of the day.

Tolkien Week #1

So Tolkien Week begins worldwide. It's seventy five years since the fantasy novel 'The Hobbit' was first published. The American Tolkien society first proclaimed Hobbit Day and Tolkien Week back in 1978 and it's been going over since, getting quite a bit of recognition by all accounts. Hobbit Day falls on the 22nd September and for those of you who haven't read the Lord of the Rings it's the joint birthday of hobbits called Bilbo and Frodo Baggins.

I first fell in love with Tolkien's works back in the early 80s. How or why I came by the book titled The Hobbit is lost to memory now. I do know I found it in the school library aged around 14, of that much I am certain, whether I stumbled upon it or someone suggested it remains clouded in the folds of time.

Back then I wasn't the most academic of students but I read The Hobbit pretty voraciously being enthralled by the fantasy world Tolkien had created containing hobbits, dwarves, trolls, elven kings and mighty dragons. It awakened something inside me that stimulated me to read more and develop an interest in writing. My English went from strength to strength and I do recall coming top of my English class that year with my exam result. My English teacher was a lovely man and he encouraged me immensely though I was just at the beginning of a very long journey.

Next I read the Lord of the Rings. I remember taking all three volumes on a family holiday. We stayed in a farmhouse in the rural village of Scalby in North Yorkshire overlooking the coastal town of Scarborough. Every spare chance available I busily read through the many chapters. I can remember long walks with my dad, uncle and cousin Ben through forests and over hills and they were the perfect compliment to Tolkiens world and imagining it. Though I can't recall every detail of that holiday thirty years ago I can remember a good deal and it seemed magical.

Here I am all those years later, still reading, still writing and still in love as much as ever with Tolkien's books.

J.R.R. Tolkien I sincerely thank you !

.....

Malta 2012

At the beginning of the month I went to Malta once again. Readers will know I've been a couple of times before though they were both winter visits. The weather there is still way more favourable than English weather that time of year.

Malta is still a mystery to me really. Why? Well because I never really feel I've gotten my head around the place and the people, though both are lovely. This visit I vowed to delve deeper into the island, see more and do more whilst fitting some relaxing and fact finding in, as my father was pondering moving out there now he's retired.

It had been almost a year and a half since my last sojourn to this little island of mystery and much has changed in the resort we usually stay at. For starters there European recession had firmly arrived, some bars had closed whilst other tacky ones had sprang up. Noticeably, English package tourists seemed more evident though sadly the sort that just want to get drunk and sing karaoke in bars selling cheap canned lager. The irony was that they seemed older tourists, 50+ at least though acting much younger, sometimes it took the term 'growing old disgracefully' to a new low level. Traditionally Malta has attracted older package British tourists eager for a warm quiet break, as well as diving enthusiasts or people with a general interest in the island and it's rich history. Now it seems the 'Benidorm' crowd as I would term it are creeping in, its a case of fun pubs over bars with charm and atmosphere.

The Maltese deserve a medal just for tolerating these types of good time package tourism and unsavoury Brits yet like any small island economy need them just the same. It often feels like the Maltese wear a painted smile and do their own socialising separate in many cases. 

To the uninitiated Maltese people seem stand offish and aloof but once you strike a friendship with them their cultural differences are more understandable. I started up a conversation with a young Maltese guy one day and after some subtle word work on my part he confessed that many Maltese though respectful of Brits are getting tired of drunken younger Brits which did seem more in abundance on this visit.

Moving on, the weather was amazing for the whole duration of the holiday. The hotel we stayed at was really nice though a little corporate. The facilities were great and we had a lovely balcony view overlooking the sea, it was a joy to wake up to. The food was lovely though breakfast wasn't that good to be fair, continentals don't always appreciate a good English breakfast, the continental option was fine though. Most holiday review sites seem to say whatever hotel you stay at in Malta then general reduce it by one star and having stayed there a few times now I do think that's fair, though that said, I am sure there's plenty of amazing hotels, don't let that put you off because my experiences have all been good thus far.

During the stay we explored the historic capital Valletta more but there is still much more to discover, it really is a lovely place. The Labour club in Valletta on Republic street is definitely worth a visit. We had spaghetti in rabbit sauce whilst drinking a beer and looking out over the balcony onto the bustling street below.

We also indulged in a day cruise to the northern islands of Comino and Gozo, taking in such sights as the fabled Blue Lagoon, James Bond cave and many others before doing a tour via mini bus of Gozo with Joe the tour guide (a real legend) before sailing back, it was a fantastic day and cost about €23, the boat departing from St Paul's bay at around 11am, returning around 6pm.

On another day we travelled to the south of the island to visit the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. To be honest there isn't that much there, though I hear on Sundays it has a good market. Its worth a visit to see the many boats in the harbour, have some food and maybe get a gift, I got a great fitting hat from a market stall so felt content with it all. You'd be hard pushed to spend more than a couple of hours there really. The area of Paolo south of Valletta that you pass through though seemed especially nice with some really interesting lamps adorning picture postcard streets festooned with celebration garlands. I really wanted to get off the Bus to explore.

This brings me to Maltese buses that have been replaced with new modern 'bendy' style buses now run by the Arriva company. An all day travel ticket in Malta is very cheap, I can't recall the exact price, around €2.70 I think, give or take a little which is very reasonable. That said, Malta can get very congested traffic wise (the Maltese love their cars) and buses don't always run on times though they try to. Don't ever tarry near the exit doors when getting off buses as the drivers don't wait for long at all before rapidly moving on. So, buses are a very hit and miss affair, cheap but a journey could be short if the traffic is favourable or painstakingly long otherwise. Taxi's are quite expensive so I'd avoid them if you can

One day towards the end of the holiday I was walking down a palm tree lined road when a football suddenly sprang out before me. I was slightly dazzled by the sun and when I looked down a small Maltese girl appeared in front of me chasing her ball. She stopped and regarded me with her cute face and fair hair in pig tails. "Sowwy" (Sorry) she said to me with her childlike voice and smiled. I'm not a child orientated person having never wanted to have kids but my heart melted and I reached out involuntary to pat her hair and say "It's ok, don't worry" before she sped off enjoying her fun. Maybe I'm getting soft in my old age.

On my last night I sat on the balcony reflecting about my holiday and life, the sun hung heavy over the west, it's orange glow fading slowly when suddenly my phone buzzed, it was a text from my friend Dom to say he was a father, baby 'Erin' had been born. I breathed the fresh air in as the sun began to vanish below the blue horizon. Smiling to myself at my friends good news I took in the lovely view before readying myself for a few beers on behalf of their excellent news and having had a good holiday.

So Malta still remains an enigma to me really. I heard an old guy at Valletta bus station say 'Take away the churches, flaky and unfinished buildings and there's not that much here.' but that is a very narrow minded and unfair view of Malta because it really is a beautiful place. I think next time I shall try and spend more time in the cosmopolitan area of Sliema or perhaps stay nearer to Valletta. Culturally I'd love to know more about the island and even more so it's people, I still say Maltese women rank as some of the worlds most beautiful and I've travelled a fair bit. I'm not sure when I'll return to Malta but I do know this, I will return.

Much Needed

It's been a while since I've had a holiday, and this little hobbit is in dire need of an adventure. So, off I go tomorrow for a much needed week away to Malta. Yep, I am going once again, this is my third time but the simple reason is I like the place, plus dad is looking to possibly retire out there so it's a holiday and fact finding mission too.

Holidays are also great chances to think as it lifts you out of your daily life and routine, you can reflect on things easier when you are removed from them. 

So I shall be catching plenty of sunshine (I hope), taking in the culture, having a beer or two, reading, looking at lovely Maltese girls and generally relaxing. If ever a holiday was much needed it's this one. I'll see you all soon and I'm sure there will be photos and blogs to follow of my adventures.

London And The Wizards Hat

Pain seared through my ankles as I rushed headlong to the train station, I was on the verge of being late. I arrived at the barrier and fumbled for my ticket, a member of staff noticed my haste and after checking my credentials told me my train had been cancelled but I could catch the next one which was due shortly after.

The fields were soon behind me and I was soon rolling into Kings Cross station. I decided to walk down to Euston and meet my friend Jane as there was no point bothering with the tube, the sun was out and the walk wouldn't take long.

Rendez-vous complete with Jane and we checked into the hotel and quickly headed back out and to Camden, I'd ordered an item of clothing on the internet from a shop there and wanted to pick it up. During a quick incursion into the Stables market area I introduced Jane to Cyberdog and I could tell she was impressed. Shortly after the heavens opened and we sought rest and drier surroundings in the nearby Hawley Arms and then the Hobgoblin pub before heading back to the hotel and grabbing some food.

A brief sleep followed and we freshened up before heading back to Camden and an evening of catching up over drinks. We stayed in the Elephants Head for a good while on Camden high street before heading across the road to the Oxford Arms and then to Inverness street to the Good Mixer, all the pubs have a nice relaxed 'local' feel to them, we also did the Hobgoblin again, it's very much a rock pub and locals are a typical rock/alternative crowd. It was a great evening of chat and Jack Daniels whiskey in my case and after some savoury rolls of Indian origin we headed back feeling quite content to the hotel.

A word of warning here, the Travelodge at Euston isn't the most quiet of hotels, especially if you get a window room facing the station. Across from you is also a bus terminal and around the corner is a fire station, the traffic noise is pretty horrendous and our double glazed window did little to dampen it, especially as it was faulty near the top. Fortunately having been to London many a time I'd taken some ear plugs along so slept fairly well, poor Jane however wasn't so lucky and made a point of buying some earplugs from a chemist the day after.

The next day came and it was once more off to Camden to carry on with our shopping quest and it yielded much in the way of new clothes and new shops we'd not discovered before. On using a cash point at nearby supermarket we were approached by a man begging. Having worked with alcoholics before I could see he was in need of a drink, his face told me so but I decided to refuse his request, and his story of losing his keys was far from convincing. On getting some money I found some loose change and relented, I decided to give him it and received no thanks at all, he almost snatched it and moved on to someone else. It would be really refreshing if they just told you the fact 'look I am an alcoholic and I really need a drink because I am shaking so bad'.

Back to the shopping and I noticed a face I'd seen before, then it dawned on me it was a guy that had been on the Take Me Out show, he had dreadlocks and hippy clothes and I distinctively remembered him. I decided to ask him outright and it was indeed him. We chatted and I asked how much of the show was edited etc before we said our goodbyes, he struck me as a really nice guy.

The next part of the plan for the day was to head up to Brick Lane in east London, I'd heard much about it from friends and programs on Tv so decided to see what the fuss was about, added to the fact I was still after a hat for my upcoming holiday after trawling Camden for one.

After dropping our bags off at the hotel we headed to Brick Lane on the tube and the journey didn't take too long. There was an incident at Euston station where I noticed some hoodies following people closely, making out they were swiping an oyster card and getting through the barriers for free. To add to the irony they had Liverpool accents*. It was obvious they were up to no good and they bumped into me but I was alert to their actions and they noted it, I warned an oblivious Jane but they took another tunnel to a different tube, the danger had passed. It did make me think how much the CCTV operators are aware, especially in light of the coming Olympics. I've heard them berate people for using camera's on the tube before and maybe on this occasion they could have been aware of the hoodies, I guess I'll never know.

We arrived at Aldgate east tube station and headed around the corner to the fabled Brick Lane. The first thing you notice about it is the very ethnic feel it has, curry houses are in abundance as are different cultural supermarkets. There's some good clothes shops too, and this was my last chance really of finding a holiday hat. The rain came hurtling down again and we ducked into a pub called The Archers. It took some time to order drinks as the barmaid spoke almost no English, no surprise the pub was empty really. It took a little while to be understood, even for universal sounding drinks like vodka and coke.

The shower soon passed and we carried up the very long Brick Lane and I have to be honest and say it really isn't very remarkable, it feels little different from some ethnic streets in places like Bradford or Leicester. Having reached the top we turned around and headed back and stumbled upon a rather bohemian second hand clothing store. We had a good nosey around and I tried a hat on, Jane commented I looked like a wizard which made me grin. Then suddenly she noticed a hat on a higher shelf and passed it down to me, it was perfect, just what I was looking for and a bargain at £6. Feeling very happy we headed back down the lane and were tempted by an Indian delicatessen serving baked rolls, pakoras and other Indian snacks and pastries.

We headed inside after deciding roughly what to order and the guy behind the counter noticed us but decided to serve another Indian guy that had come into the shop a few seconds after us. I thought nothing of it and we waited patiently. After the first guy was served another entered and he was served and we were again ignored, we carried on waiting. When he was served an Asian woman entered and we were yet again ignored, as he started to serve her I shouted 'whoaa!' annoyed at being blatantly blanked repeatedly but he continued to ignore us. I turned to Jane as said 'Forget it' then we walked out, it was a very weird feeling indeed, one of anger but something more, I think the feeling was a direct one of clear racism towards us and it's not easy to explain but I can tell you, it didn't feel very nice.

We headed back and I really didn't feel like doing much after such a busy day. Jane rallied me making the point we were only there for a couple of days so had better make the most of it. We headed to the familiar and comfortable territory of Camden again and for last evening of socialising.

The next day soon came around and our trains in opposite directions headed back around lunched time, after packing our bags and saying our goodbyes we parted and headed home. I walked back to the new Kings Cross departures station and was very impressed with how it was laid out, noticeably less busy too. The train journey home was uneventful and and I was soon back in my sleepy town, it felt good to be home after a very busy few days away.

(*People from Liverpool are often joked about in English culture as sometimes being thieves.)

Photos from top to bottom are; Street art in Brick Lane, Brick Lane, A Tolkien sign between Euston and Kings Cross and the Harry Potter platform at the new Kings Cross departures station. As for Camden I've posted many photos of it before!

March? Surely A Mistake !

Yep, spring is on it's way, strolling around town today it almost felt like late May, not March. It was lovely and warm with a sky bereft of clouds! I love spring time! Here is a photo of the sky line in the centre of town today.

Night Out

It's that time of the year when crazy nights out occur. Friday and Saturday of the weekend just gone by were pretty mad indeed but laced with lashings of fun and utter nonsense. Both nights were mainly in Nottingham with late returns home. I really need to get out of town more and have nights out in different places, I just wish there was a later train back from Nottingham on Saturdays.

A Hobbit London Weekend

Last Friday saw me heading to London to meet up with friends for a weekend of retail pleasure and generally getting away for a couple of days for a change of scenery. As I boarded the train in my sleepy town I noticed the carriage was almost empty, this made for a peaceful journey. The train sped through the English countryside only stopping at a couple of towns and in no time we were pulling into Kings Cross.

Heaving throngs deftly sidestepped I ducked into the underground and headed for Waterloo, the 1990's football anthem of 'Vindaloo' stuck in my head and a nostalgic smile on my face.

On arriving at the huge Waterloo station I munched on a pretty tasteless chicken burger from Burger King and chided myself after for not noticing a decent cheap sandwich stall selling French stick sandwiches for a mere £2.

There was some confusion on meeting my friend at the station as Waterloo has many exits and we basically had to head indoors to find one another under the central large hanging clock. Then there was yet more confusion after we exited onto an overpass and got slightly lost. We soon sorted things and found the nearby Travelodge hotel we were staying at which was near the Old Vic theatre. There's not much to say about the hotel, all Travelodge's seem the alike though this one seemed to have more facilities than most, having a bar, internet cafe and restaurant of sorts. After a bit of rest that was rudely interrupted by a foreign maid who pointed out there was no quilt cover and then never came back it was soon evening and time to head out.

Off to Camden we headed via the northern tube line and then hit the bars in a very busy Camden. The Worlds End pub is one of the busiest I know yet it was rammed with people. Drinking in London isn't cheap, not that anywhere is these days but the first round came to £7.50 for a pint and a half of lager, ouch! We left after the first drinks and header deeper into Camden proper but in doing so was accosted by a Big Issue vendor plying his wares. As I'm involved with Big Issue I noticed they were indeed old wares, a 2 week old magazine for starters plus he didn't have any identification number. This was pointed out to him and he scuttled off into the night, which was amusing as I couldn't have done anything anyway and had no intention to either, being on a weekend break.

Next up was the Elephants Head which is a great little pub on the main road through Camden. At this point I was on pints with whiskey chasers and really getting into the eclectic music being played within. After a few drinks in the Elephant we headed to the Good Mixer on Inverness Street which again is another no frills street corner pub with a good atmosphere and earthy crowd.

The night quickly flashed by and I was very impressed by Camden at night, we then headed back to Waterloo on a late tube and got off at Embankment before crossing a very cold Waterloo bridge and trying to find our way back, by this time I was quite merry and carefree and after a brief escapade in a very expensive London taxi which cost £10 for what seemed like 300-400 meters in the congested traffic we noticed a landmark near our hotel and jumped out to try and find something to eat. Not being aware of the local places we stumbled upon an Italian restaurant. Without going into detail the food wasn't fantastic or in large amounts and it was quite pricey. With a half full stomachs we headed for the hotel to sleep off the first night.

Sleeping in central London isn't easy unless you sleep heavy, I awoke after an initial deep alcohol induced slumber to sounds of planes going over, police sirens and random shouts in the night. Until the morning it was a very patchy sleep but enough to get by on.

Day two promised to be action packed but early on we became aware the northern tube line was disrupted (among others) because of works being done. This seems to happen every time I am in the capital, only the night before a line had gone down after it was announced someone had jumped in front of a tube train, living in London I can possibly see reasons why they might do such a thing.

The day began with a brisk stroll across the Thames, then along the embankment to Big Ben and Westminster before catching the tube again.

We took a different line to Oxford street before indulging in some browsing of shops before heading into a quieter Soho and catching our breath in Soho Square. I'd called my friend Drew at this point and sought advice on buses to Camden as we wanted to shop there later. After a brief rest and coffee at Starbucks we headed deeper into Soho as I'm quite familiar with it and first went to the Vintage Magazine shop on Brewer street. As we headed there cutting through the lovely little Meard Street I noticed that the little Newsagents called 'The Hobbit' around the corner from it had sadly closed.

Seeking solace in Vintage Magazines we soaked up all the retro film goodness and memorabilia, they really do have some great stuff in there, from posters, masks, key rings, coasters, postcards and badges. I purchased a rather spiffy Groucho Marx tea mug and coaster so was a very happy little hobbit. After that we headed up Berwick Street and popped into Sister Ray which is an independent music store, very akin to what Selectadisc was in Nottingham before it closed, it may even be the same company/people running it. I purchased the excellent 'A Universe Between Us' compact disc by Nick Marsh and withdrew after that before I was tempted to buy any more.

I paused on what to do next, we skirted the bottom of Soho and could smell the aroma's coming from Leicester Square and China town but we resolved to head to Tottenham Court road and try and get a bus to Camden. After chatting to a couple of locals, the latter being disenfranchised with the local buses and ticket machines we boarded a packed bus to Camden and I soon recognised the local surroundings though couldn't help feeling sad when a young mother get off the bus and headed to some very dour looking flats with her two kids, I really can't imagine bringing kids up in such a busy built up area. When you become more familiar with London you realise it really isn't as massive as you first think and Camden isn't really too far up Tottenham court road with a couple of slight twists and turns, en route I notice Warren Street tube station where we may be meeting more friends later. And so to Camden, we disembarked the bus and headed into the bohemian crowds in search of avant garde retail goodness.

Several market areas followed in Camden and money started to empty out my pockets at an alarming rate, such is the Camden effect and great range of clothes and accessory stuff, its all in one place. Some may call Camden cliché but they aren't really delving deep in what it has to offer, yes there's some cheap tat rubbish to be sure but there's also some very good clothing to be had that is unusual or hand crafted that goes for other items or artwork too.

We then headed over the road to the Chalk farm stables market and headed on inside through the partially covered Blade runner-esque style myriad of stalls and units. It was there I saw a lovely jacket but held back as I was yet to enter my beloved Cyberdog at the bottom end of the market. Suddenly I was stunned, they were actually queuing to get inside! The coat playing on my mind, and not wanting to queue up we decided to head out the bottom exit and across the road to a rather nice pub called the Monarch and lick our financial wounds and ponder what to do next, in my case ponder if I was going to buy the jacket I'd seen. Being reflective here I suspect not being able to get into Cyberdog was a blessing in disguise as I'd been in there earlier this year and spent loads but on the positive side they do have a website to order from.

Deliberations over the coat complete we headed back to haggle and the woman at the shop in Stables market called Psylo wouldn't budge after offering me £10 off the asking price, I tried to get her to lower it but my efforts were in vain. I caved in, it was a nice coat to be fair and I did fall in love with it at first site, the fit was excellent too. There were a few other bits and bobs purchased by my friend and I before we grabbed a quick pizza slice and headed to Warren street tube station to meet friends Drew and Sophie then retiring to a nearby pub called The Prince of Wales Feathers. It was indeed a cozy traditional pub with friendly staff and a good selection of drinks. Time soon passed and much Geeky talk between myself and Drew was to be had but we all chatted along merrily before noticing it was getting late, by this time I was indeed feeling the exertions of the day and feeling quite tired.

A swift tube journey back to Waterloo via a zig-zag route and with more awareness of our surroundings we noticed a rather good Greek style chip shop near the Old Vic. We bagged hefty portions of fish and chips before heading back to the hotel and collapsing wearily and eating our food and examining our days booty.

Another night of not so great sleep followed (my friend snored!) and it was morning and time to pack our bags and head home, it had all gone so quick. The journey home at lunchtime was uneventful and the tube works going on didn't affect my journey to a very busy Kings Cross. Yet again I succumbed to a quick and tasteless Burger King before boarding the train home, the designated quiet carriage wasn't so quiet as babies where shrieking but I blotted it out with music and dozed in and out of sleep until I arrived home, one hour and 20 minutes later, the contrast between town and city is amazing, and quite reassuring when you get home as the madness of London is left behind.

I think some of my perceptions of London have changed really over the years and many visits. Once upon a time I quite fancied living there but now I'd not even consider it unless I was rich. London is a city of contrasts, some being quite stark but then most cities are. The transport system in London isn't cheap, both for its inhabitants and visitors alike. For example a single journey on the tube from Waterloo to Kings Cross is £5 for a relatively short journey yet an all day travel card for zones 1-2 is £6.80p and you can travel freely all day in those zones after 9am on the tube or bus. A woman that helped me regarding the buses moaned about ticket machines not working and bus prices, as I used my all day travel card I wasn't sure of bus tariff's but they seemed to be £2 upwards, though I may be wrong, not being a native of the city. Buses are indeed a packed soulless affair but good for people watching, there's no interaction with the driver, you show your ticket, board them get off and it does seem open to exploitation really. London transport be it tube or bus is a hap-hazard expensive affair and the tube system compared to other cities is positive antiquated but I guess unalterable in some respects or at least practical ones. It does make me think that the sheer volume of people in London would make the transport systems cheaper though I guess such a massive transport system is very costly to run - if only it was better, and better value for money.

Do I still like London? Yes, because I've not really scratched it's massive surface but in truth there's only odd areas I'm really interested in to be honest. London does have character yet other areas of it seem grey and bland but such is the nature of cities the world over, London in summertime is a much nicer experience. Come the 2012 Olympics next year it'll be a very crowded expensive place and even more multicultural than it already is. I'll always be happy to make flying visits but unless I win the lottery and could buy something secluded with in some nice inner area of it then I'd never live there, it'd be too depressing and even if I did have millions in order to buy such a place then there are much nicer places around the world.

London is a love/hate place for me. Some of the marvellous buildings and structures appeal to my sense of national identity but other aspects of it repel me to some degree. It'll always intrigue me but I'll always want to keep it at arms length, it's great to visit but even better knowing you can leave and come home.